How it works
1
Probe for a tunnel
Using the probe, search 6–10 inches around a fresh mound to locate an active tunnel — you'll feel it when the probe pushes through the soil more easily.
2
Open the hole
Use the wedge to open a hole from the surface down into the active tunnel, doing as little added damage as possible.
3
Place and set the trap
Ease the trap into the tunnel by the black tube, then pull up until it locks to set. Pack dirt around it to block the light.
4
Check the indicator
When the trap fires, the above-ground indicator turns yellow — "if it's yellow, you got your fellow." No digging to check.
Why GopherHawk
Not all gopher control is created equal
See how GopherHawk compares to other ways of dealing with gophers and moles
No diggingSet from above ground
No poison or chemicalsNothing toxic in the soil
No handling the pestLifts straight out
Catch indicatorSee it fire at a glance
ReusableNot a consumable
Targets gophers & molesBoth pests, one tool
One-time costNo ongoing spend
Our pick
GopherHawk
Best
Traditional
Gopher trap
Partial
Chemical
Poison bait
Partial
Partial
Partial
Hire out
Pro service
Partial
Yes
No
Partial
Depends on setup
Real results
See it in action
Setup demos and honest reviews from homeowners and pest pros.
Certified installers
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Got questions?
Frequently asked questions
Do I need the Wedge & Probe tool, or just the trap?
If you're new to GopherHawk, start with the Trapping Set — it includes the trap plus the Wedge & Probe tool you need to locate the tunnel and open the placement hole. The Single Trap is the trap only, meant as an add-on once you already own the Wedge & Probe and want to cover more of your yard.
Does it work on both gophers and moles?
Yes — the same trap works for both. One thing to know about moles: they keep two tunnel systems, a shallow grubbing run near the surface and a deeper habitat tunnel. Set the trap in the deeper habitat tunnel for best results, and always block out the light with soil once it's placed.
How do I find the right spot to set the trap?
Look for a fresh mound — the soil will look loose or damp. Using the probe, search about 6–10 inches out from the mound (ideally between two mounds). You've found the tunnel when the probe suddenly pushes through with much less resistance. Then use the wedge to open a hole down into that tunnel for the trap.
My trap won't set — what am I doing wrong?
If a new trap won't set, firmly strike the black tube against something solid (not metal or concrete) a few times, or against the palm of your hand — this resets the internal mechanism. Then set as normal. When setting, always pull up on the black tube to compress the spring; never push down, as even a small downward push can bend the straps.
How do I know when I've caught something?
The trap has an above-ground catch indicator: the spring sits up and shows yellow once the trap has fired, so you can check at a glance without digging — "if it's yellow, you got your fellow." No touching the soil or the pest to find out.
Can I reuse the trap? How do I keep it working?
Yes, it's fully reusable. To clean the trigger, unwind the spring just past the yellow, then hold it under running water and tug and twist the trigger so water flushes the dirt out from behind it. Repeat if needed. The stainless steel straps resist rust so the trap holds up season after season.
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